Driving in Madeira is no easy feat! As a couple both in their 30’s who have both been driving since our teen years, this is one place I have no desire to self-drive again. One-lane roads (often with no guardrails), true switchbacks, fog at high elevations, parking on cliffsides…the list goes on. Moral of the story: I would absolutely hire a private driver if we ever go back.

First thing to know —Portugal requires an international driver’s license. I did that through AAA for $20, and it’s valid for a year. If you plan on traveling frequently within that time frame, it should cover most countries.

Funny enough, two of our rental car places on this trip didn’t even check to see that I had the silly paper , so take that information as you will.

I highly recommend booking your rental car as early as possible, especially if anyone in your party can’t drive manual. Most cars on Madeira are manual, which I don’t drive. Luckily, we booked a few months in advance and ended up with a great little “soccer mom” car that was perfect for exploring the island and fit all our luggage.

While on Madeira we booked with 7M Rent a Car and picked our vehicle mid-afternoon with no issues and no wait time.

While researching, I kept reading that rental companies farther from the airport tend to be cheaper—and we found that to be true. I’d also recommend not not picking up your rental car until you actually need it. Funchal is an incredibly walkable city, and part of the fun is stumbling upon hidden gems tucked within the nooks of this city. Also, note that parking is limited, at least where we stayed.

In Funchal, we stayed at the Se Boutique Hotel, which is close to the waterfront and right in the heart of the city, with a parking garage about a five-minute walk away—major selling points for us when booking our Madeira trip.

Another thing to note: Madeira has Bolt (their version of uber) with very fair rates. We rarely waited long for a ride and mainly used it to get to one dinner at Oxalis, which was on top of a mountain.

Download the Bolt app here.

Back to the insanity of driving on this tiny island. The highways and main roads in populated areas were never an issue—especially in and around Funchal, the capitol, and near the airport. In fact, the highways were great: clear signage, well-lit roads, guardrails—everything you’d expect while driving in the U.S. The only unusual part is that you cab find yourself driving through tunnels inside mountains for several minutes as a time. Its a bit strange, but also kind of fun. Overall, the island’s main infrastructure is well designed. The back roads however… that’s a different story.

Between the fog, the lack of guardrails, and the TIGHT turns, Madeira can make even experienced drivers a little nervous. For reference, my husband used to drive an ambulance, and even he hesitated on some of these roads. The general advice— even from locals —is to take your time and go slow if needed.

There are plenty of stopping points and scenic viewpoints along the way, so take breaks when you need them. The beauty of the island’s size is that everything is relatively close—most drives are about 20 minutes from place to place. The longest stretch we had was around 40 minutes, driving from the northern part of the island back to the airport.

I did make a short list of some of the nerve-wracking driving moment we experienced, just so you can keep them in mind when planning your own trip.

The Miradouro do Caminho do Pico was absolutely breathtaking! Go if you have time and interest— but don’t drive all the way down to the lookout. Park further up the road and walk down. Your future self will thank you. The tiny parking lot at the bottom fits maybe two cars and is extremely steep. My husband was genuinely concerned that manual cars might struggle to get back up the incline.

Next was the town of Seixal, known for its black sand beach and lava pools. It’s become a popular tourist spot, but it’s still very much built into a cliffside, with winding switchbacks throughout the town. Parking was a bit of a nightmare with all the one-way streets, but we still enjoyed a great lunch while watching waves crash over the pools.

Lastly, I wanted to visit Parque Florestal das Queimadas, a park with several trails—and a real parking lot, which was a plus. The downside is the drive to the trailhead. We got stuck in a traffic jam of tourists unsure how to navigate the steep, narrow roads, and we nearly watched a car go over the edge of a cliff. Once again, there’s a serious lack of guardrails, and some roads are barely wide enough for two cars—or are even just dirt paths. Thankfully, this was our last driving day, because it definitely took away some of our desire to explore more remote areas.

Overall, Madeira is absolutely stunning—from Funchal to smaller towns like Santana. Just take your time, plan ahead, and make sure whoever is driving is confident navigating a wide range of road conditions. Read more about our Madeira travels here!